Pioneer women faced unique challenges when it came to their clothing. Practicality, societal expectations, and personal expression all played a role in shaping their wardrobes. From undergarments to Sunday best, the clothing of women on the Western frontier from 1850-1890 tells a story of resilience, resourcefulness, and the enduring desire for beauty. This exploration focuses primarily on white female homesteaders and settlers west of Missouri and Arkansas. Their clothing reflected a blend of Eastern traditions adapted to the demands of frontier life.
Pioneer women’s undergarments were surprisingly similar to those worn in Eastern cities. A chemise, a lightweight cotton slip worn for hygiene, was the foundation. Pantalets, made of flannel or cotton, provided modesty. Contrary to popular imagination, most frontier women also wore corsets, reflecting their commitment to societal norms of the time. While heavy workloads might necessitate loosening or even forgoing the corset during chores, it remained a staple garment. Petticoats, adding fullness to skirts, and stockings, held up by garters or tucked into pantalets, completed the undergarment ensemble.
Calico was the most prevalent fabric for everyday pioneer clothing. This sturdy, easily cleaned cotton fabric was ideal for the active lifestyle of frontier women. While often associated with floral prints, calico was available in various colors, either store-bought or dyed at home using natural ingredients like berries, bark, or leaves. While calico served practical needs, cotton and silk were reserved for special occasions and Sunday attire, often brought from the East. The availability of store-bought fabrics depended on proximity to general stores, and many families continued to make their own clothing.
Frontier life demanded practicality. Women participated in physically demanding tasks essential for survival and the establishment of homes and farms. Chores included cooking, cleaning, childcare, laundry, and fieldwork. Clothing needed to allow for freedom of movement and withstand harsh conditions.
Everyday dresses retained the fitted bodice and full skirt silhouette popular in the East, but with key modifications. Skirts were hemmed shorter for ease of movement and sometimes weighted to prevent accidental exposure on windy days. Sleeves were lengthened to the wrist for sun protection, and high collars provided additional coverage. “Wash dresses,” two-piece cotton garments designed for easy laundering, emerged as a practical solution to the challenges of keeping clothes clean in frontier conditions.
Sundays and social gatherings provided opportunities for women to showcase their best attire. Church services and community events called for more formal clothing. Sunday best often mirrored Eastern fashions, with full skirts worn over petticoats and corsets. Puffed sleeves in styles like bell, leg-o-mutton, or pagoda, along with fashionable hats, kid gloves, and low-heeled boots, completed the look. Younger women favored lighter colors, while older or married women opted for darker hues.
Social events like dances, holiday celebrations, and picnics offered further opportunities for women to express themselves through fashion. Women treasured these special occasion dresses, often painstakingly sewn from fabrics ordered from general stores or inspired by patterns from publications like Godey’s Lady’s Book. When resources were limited, existing dresses were adorned with embellishments like hand-crocheted collars and shawls to create a festive look.
Accessories played a crucial role in completing a woman’s ensemble. Beyond the essential garments, items like aprons, boots, brooches, lockets, earrings, hair adornments, hats, collars, cuffs, gloves, undersleeves, parasols, fans, handbags, and shawls added personal style and flair. These seemingly small details held significant importance in expressing individuality and adhering to social customs.
The clothing worn by pioneer women reveals a fascinating blend of practicality and fashion. These women adapted Eastern styles to the rigors of frontier life while maintaining their desire for beauty and self-expression. Their resourcefulness and creativity shine through in their clothing choices, leaving a lasting legacy of Fashion By Women on the American frontier.
