The University of Washington Libraries’ Fashion Plate Collection offers a fascinating glimpse into the evolution of fashion from the 19th and early 20th centuries. These meticulously hand-colored engravings and lithographs, primarily from leading French, British, American, and Continental fashion journals, showcase a wide range of styles and trends. The collection includes plates from renowned publications such as Belle assemblée, Le bon ton, Le Follet, courrier des salons, Journal des dames and des modes, and Godey’s lady’s book and magazine.
The digitized collection of 417 Fashion Plates spans various stylistic periods, including the Empire (1806-1813), Georgian (1806-1836), Regency (1811-1820), Romantic (1825-1850), Victorian (1837-1859), Late Victorian (1860-1900), and Edwardian (1901-1915) eras. While the original fashion plates are preserved in archival housing and available for viewing by appointment, the digital collection makes these unique resources accessible to a wider audience.
Blanche Payne, a former professor of historic costume and apparel design at the University of Washington, played a crucial role in assembling and studying these fashion plates. Her research and travels, particularly in Europe, contributed significantly to the University’s understanding of historical fashion.
Payne’s extensive research culminated in the publication of her seminal work, “History of Costume,” in 1965. This comprehensive textbook, still considered a valuable resource in costume history, meticulously details the evolution of fashion from 3000 B.C. to 1900. To illustrate her book, Payne amassed a vast collection of visual materials, including photographs, postcards, art prints, and, most importantly, fashion plates.
Payne’s legacy extends beyond her published works. The textile and ethnic dress samples she acquired during her career are now housed in the Henry Art Gallery Textile Collection. Her collection of costume and textile books, archival photographs, fashion plates, drawings, and garment patterns remain part of the UW Libraries Manuscripts, Special Collections, and University Archives. Researchers can also access her travel journals and notes related to her Eastern European costume research.
The fashion plates themselves provide invaluable insights into the prevailing aesthetics and social customs of their respective eras. Plate 1, for instance, depicts Empire period walking dresses from 1809, showcasing the influence of Classical Greece with high-waisted gowns, long muslin skirts, and stoles.
Plate 2 illustrates the shift in fashion during the Georgian period (1827), with tightly corseted waists, full sleeves, and fuller skirts replacing the flowing Classical style. The detailed descriptions accompanying the plates provide context and highlight the intricate details of each garment and accessory.
Plate 4 exemplifies the Late Victorian period (1876), showcasing the evolution of dress shapes with flattened fronts and sides and the emergence of the bustle. The elaborate descriptions of fabrics, trims, and construction techniques provide further insight into the craftsmanship and fashion sensibilities of the time. These fashion plates not only document changing styles but also reveal the social and cultural contexts in which these fashions flourished. They serve as primary source material for researchers, students, and anyone interested in exploring the rich history of clothing and adornment.
