The Fashion World was deeply saddened by the passing of Karl Lagerfeld. A creative force at Chanel and Fendi, Lagerfeld was a renowned designer, photographer, illustrator, and writer. His death marks a monumental moment in fashion history, leaving a void that will likely never be filled. This loss also presents an opportunity to re-evaluate the concept of a fashion icon.
Philippa Snow, in an article for i-D Magazine, called Lagerfeld the “last descendant” of a lineage of “chic eccentrics.” She observed that he transformed his unique persona and “super-villain bitchiness” into high art. However, in today’s climate of social awareness, the traditional archetype of the “haute-cruel” fashion figure is becoming obsolete.
Fashion, like all art forms, offers an element of escapism. While it’s crucial to hold artists accountable for the real-world impact of their creations, especially as new leaders emerge, it’s also important to consider the extent to which we expect them to be grounded in reality.
Alt: Karl Lagerfeld sketching a design, highlighting his role as a creative force in the fashion world.
Lagerfeld’s immense influence shielded him from criticism for his often controversial statements. He famously declared his disdain for those who couldn’t “follow the evolution of time and mood” and expressed skepticism about the #MeToo movement. These pronouncements, rather than being condemned, became integral to the “Karl brand.”
In today’s tumultuous political and social climate, designers are expected not only to possess artistic vision but also to align with societal values. They must navigate the complexities of ethical sourcing, sustainable practices, and authentic marketing. Lagerfeld’s passing compels a critical examination of how designers cultivate their image and how the industry shapes their brands.
Alt: Karl Lagerfeld taking a bow at a Chanel fashion show, showcasing his prominent position in the fashion world.
The well-being of models must remain a priority, regardless of industry trends. Lagerfeld’s dismissive response to sexual harassment allegations against another industry figure highlights a concerning disregard for models’ safety. Emerging designers should be held to a higher standard, prioritizing ethical treatment of their workforce over personal gain or larger-than-life personas.
Alt: Models walking the runway at a fashion show, emphasizing the importance of their well-being within the fashion world.
Florence Welch, Anna Calabrese, and Brad Kroenig likened Lagerfeld to a hawk, a lion, and a hybrid of a lion and fox, respectively. These comparisons capture the essence of his commanding presence. As Rachel Syme wrote in The New Yorker, Lagerfeld didn’t just want to work in fashion; he wanted to rule it. He achieved this by establishing himself as the ultimate arbiter of taste, dictating trends and anointing the next generation of “it” girls, from Vanessa Paradis and Kate Moss to Lily Depp. His iconic status was reinforced by the constant presence of youthful, fresh-faced models.
Alt: Karl Lagerfeld posing with a model, demonstrating his influence in selecting and promoting new faces in the fashion world.
While Lagerfeld resisted the label of artist, it’s the most fitting tribute to his prolific and influential career. However, the predatory animal analogies used by those who knew him necessitate a shift in the industry. The fashion world must confront the extent of the power it bestows upon its leaders.
Alt: Karl Lagerfeld attending a fashion event, symbolizing his powerful and influential role within the fashion world.
Despite its penchant for fantasy and extravagance, fashion is ultimately a business. Its leaders bear a responsibility to those within and affected by the industry. Lagerfeld’s legacy prompts a crucial conversation about power, responsibility, and the future of the fashion world.
