Brandy Melville, a clothing brand popular with teenage girls for its “California girl” aesthetic, has long been embroiled in controversy surrounding its “one size fits all” sizing policy. An HBO documentary released in April 2024 further fueled the fire, exposing discriminatory, exploitative, and wasteful practices within the company.
The documentary traces Brandy Melville’s journey from its Italian origins to its American popularity, highlighting how its minimalist clothing and social media marketing created a cult-like following among young girls. Former employees recounted feeling immense pressure to conform to the brand’s image and described a toxic work environment rife with appearance-based and racial discrimination. Non-white employees were often relegated to stockrooms, while only thin, white girls were hired for customer-facing roles.
The film also delves into Brandy Melville’s fast-fashion business model, which prioritizes cheap, trendy clothing over ethical production and environmental sustainability. The documentary reveals several disturbing practices, including design theft from employees and a culture of overconsumption fueled by social media influencers.
Alt: A still from the Brandy Melville documentary showing clothing designs allegedly copied from employees.
Employees, embodying the brand’s desired aesthetic, often served as unwitting design inspiration. The documentary reveals how Brandy Melville would replicate employee outfits, mass-producing styles based on “store style” photos taken during shifts. One former employee shared an experience of seeing a Brandy Melville version of her own shirt sold in stores shortly after wearing it to work.
The brand’s reliance on social media influencers further exacerbated the issue of overconsumption. Influencers received excessive amounts of free clothing, promoting a culture of disposability and contributing to the massive textile waste problem. YouTube hauls featuring Brandy Melville clothing became incredibly popular, encouraging viewers to purchase numerous items.
Alt: Promo for the Planet logo promoting sustainability in the promotional products industry.
The documentary highlighted the staggering statistic that 85% of the 36 billion garments purchased annually in the U.S. and Europe end up discarded. This overwhelming volume of textile waste overwhelms charitable donation systems and has devastating environmental consequences.
The film explores the devastating impact of fast fashion waste on Ghana, where approximately 15 million used clothing items are dumped weekly. Ghana is forced to accept this waste due to economic pressure from wealthier nations. The documentary exposes the human cost of this practice, with Ghanaian women bearing the physical burden of transporting heavy bales of clothing, leading to health issues like neck pain and scoliosis. The environmental consequences are equally dire, with discarded clothing polluting waterways and ecosystems. “Dead white man’s clothes,” as locals call them, serve as a stark reminder of the exploitative nature of the fast fashion industry.
Finally, the documentary questions the authenticity of Brandy Melville’s “Made in Italy” label. While suggesting high-quality craftsmanship, the film explores the possibility of the brand utilizing low-paid labor in Prato, Italy’s textile hub. The influx of fast-fashion manufacturers and the potential for exploitative labor practices raise serious ethical concerns. The mayor of Prato acknowledges the presence of numerous “not legit” companies operating as sweatshops in the region, casting doubt on Brandy Melville’s claims of ethical production. The documentary leaves viewers questioning whether the “Made in Italy” label is a marketing ploy or a genuine reflection of the brand’s manufacturing practices.
