The University of Washington Libraries’ Fashion Plate Collection offers a fascinating glimpse into the evolution of fashion trends throughout the 19th and early 20th centuries. The collection, meticulously curated by Blanche Payne and others, features hand-colored engravings and lithographs from leading French, British, American, and continental fashion journals. These fashion plates, visual representations of stylish clothing and accessories, served as important sources of inspiration and information for dressmakers and fashion-conscious individuals of the time. These primary source documents vividly illustrate the changing silhouettes, fabrics, and embellishments that defined various stylistic periods. Among the notable publications represented in the collection are La Belle assemblée, Le Bon Ton, Godey’s Lady’s Book, and Journal des Dames et des Modes. The digitized collection of 417 images provides online access to a selection of these fashion plates, showcasing styles from the Empire, Georgian, Regency, Romantic, Victorian, and Edwardian eras.
Originally collected for research and teaching purposes by Blanche Payne, a professor of historic costume and apparel design at the University of Washington, the fashion plates were carefully cataloged and preserved in archival housing. Recognizing the importance of broader access to these unique resources, the Digital Initiatives Program undertook a project to digitize selections from the collection. This digitization effort significantly increases the visibility and usability of these valuable historical artifacts, allowing researchers and fashion enthusiasts worldwide to study and appreciate the intricacies of past fashion trends. While the original fashion plates remain available for viewing by appointment through the Special Collections Division, the online database offers a convenient and readily accessible alternative.
Blanche Payne’s dedication to the study of historic costume extended beyond the Fashion Plate Collection. She traveled extensively throughout Europe, particularly in Eastern Europe and the Balkan countries, collecting original ethnic costumes and textiles to enrich her research and teaching. Payne believed that studying original artifacts was crucial for understanding good design, a philosophy reflected in her seminal work, “History of Costume.”
Published in 1965, “History of Costume” remains a highly regarded resource in the field of costume history. This comprehensive textbook traces the evolution of fashion from 3000 B.C. to 1900, providing detailed descriptions of historical and cultural garments accompanied by meticulously drafted small-scale patterns. Payne’s meticulous research for the book involved a two-year endeavor of collecting illustrations, including photographs, postcards, art prints, and, of course, fashion plates. Her book, along with her extensive collection of costume and textile books, archival photographic materials, drawings, and garment patterns, is preserved in the UW Libraries Manuscripts, Special Collections, and University Archives.
The Fashion Plate Collection provides valuable insights into specific historical periods. For example, Plate 1 showcases Empire period fashion with garden promenade dresses from 1809. These dresses exemplify the influence of Classical Greece on fashion, featuring high-waisted gowns, long thin muslin skirts, and long stoles. Plate 2 depicts Georgian period fashion with an evening and walking dress from 1827, showcasing the transition to tightly corseted waists, full sleeves, and fuller skirts.
Plate 4 illustrates a Late Victorian period walking dress from 1876. This fashion plate reveals the changing silhouette of the 1870s, with flattened fronts and sides and a bustle creating fullness at the back. The detailed description accompanying the image highlights the intricate construction of the gown, including the use of gathered fabric and elaborate looping at the back. These fashion plates, along with the rest of the collection, serve as invaluable resources for understanding the nuances of historical fashion and the cultural context in which they emerged. They offer a visual journey through time, capturing the essence of each era’s aesthetic ideals and societal norms.
