Fabric is the essence of fashion. The desire for textiles has driven social and economic history worldwide. Yet, modern fashion consumers often overlook the importance of the Fashion Fabric they wear. For stylish individuals of the past, however, textiles were among their most prized possessions. Knowledge of fabrics was widespread. A fashionable eighteenth-century woman understood the high cost of silk brocade imported from China, the distinctions between wool fabrics for men’s and women’s wear, and that the most colorfast cotton calicos originated in India. As recently as 1955, market research by the United States Department of Agriculture revealed that “nine out of ten women . . . were aware of the fiber content of what they were buying, and used that knowledge in their purchasing decisions.”
The structure of a textile, whether woven or knitted, possesses unique qualities that influence the final design’s shape. Silk, for instance, can be woven into a delicate, plain-weave chiffon that drapes loosely or into a complex compound weave with intricate structures, varied yarn textures, and multiple colors to create a dense, luxurious material that falls in dramatic folds. Fashion fabric choices contribute significantly to the silhouette and overall aesthetic of a garment.
Silk, the ultimate luxury fiber for centuries, fueled demand in Europe, leading to the trade network connecting the Old World. Originating in China, silk textiles like brocades and damasks stimulated European interest in Asian aesthetics, a trend that continues to resurface in Western fashion. Silk also formed the foundation of the French textile industry, centered in Lyon since the fifteenth century. Lyon contributed to Paris becoming the Western world’s fashion capital, providing nineteenth- and twentieth-century couture houses with the fashion fabric necessary to set global trends.
Wool fueled the growth of the British economy, starting in the Middle Ages. Wool’s unique ability to mold with heat and moisture facilitated the characteristically Western trend of tailored garments. As England’s commercial empire expanded globally during the eighteenth century, the country embraced cotton, driving colonization in India and Britain’s industrial revolution. Cotton, once a costly novelty, transformed into an accessible, everyday fashion fabric by the late nineteenth century.
The industrial revolution sparked a nineteenth-century consumer boom. Textiles, once precious and costly, became more readily available. Complex fabrics previously hand-woven could be mechanically produced, enabling women’s fashion to flourish with diverse fabrics and trims on voluminous silhouettes. During this period, Western society strictly divided roles by gender, and fashion consumption was considered a feminine pursuit. By the early nineteenth century, luxurious velvets, delicate nets, and shimmering satins were almost exclusively worn by women, while dark wools, accented by bright white cottons, were deemed masculine. This era highlights the significant impact of societal changes on fashion fabric choices and consumption.
Nineteenth-century scientific advancements also yielded new fibers. Rayon, the first man-made fiber, emerged as a silk alternative in the early twentieth century. Truly synthetic fibers followed, derived from petroleum by-products, including nylon (1935) and polyester (1941). Thermoplastic synthetics provided fashion designers with a novel medium. Appearing in countless variations and blends, synthetics broadened the variety, functionality, and accessibility of fashion fabric.
Within high fashion, fashion fabrics are deliberately and meticulously selected. They reflect their respective eras in fashion and culture. Examining the materials, their intricacies, and their evolving roles throughout history provides valuable insight into the dynamic relationship between fashion fabric and societal trends.
