The 1950s are often associated with Christian Dior’s “New Look,” characterized by a cinched waist and full skirt. However, women’s 50s fashion offered a surprising array of styles beyond this iconic silhouette. This decade witnessed a significant shift, embracing diverse options and setting the stage for future fashion trends.
Beyond the New Look: A Spectrum of Silhouettes
Fashion curator Daniel Milford-Cottam, in his book Fashion in the 1950s, highlights the emergence of diverse styles: “Two ladies could walk down the street in different outfits, yet appear equally modish, be their skirts full and narrow, or one in a form-fitting sheath and the other in a loose sack dress.” This newfound freedom of choice was a defining characteristic of the era.
Designers like Cristobal Balenciaga, Charles James, and Hubert de Givenchy played pivotal roles in expanding the fashion landscape. As James Laver notes in Costume and Fashion: A Concise History, “As the decade progressed, clothing became less structured and straighter in cut.” This shift led to the rise of the straight-cut suit, popularized by Chanel, Dior, and Balenciaga. Unlike the New Look, these suits emphasized a woman’s natural form with jackets falling at the hip’s widest point.
Later in the decade, sheath dresses and high-waisted chemise dresses, introduced by Balenciaga in 1957, gained traction. Balenciaga’s signature swing coat, exemplified by model Suzy Parker, further showcased the evolving silhouette.
Sportswear and Casual Chic: American Influences
While European designers championed haute couture, American designers like Claire McCardell continued to champion sportswear. McCardell’s signature wrap dresses and pedal pushers remained popular choices, reflecting a more casual approach to dressing. Young women embraced these comfortable and less formal styles, including sundresses and swimsuits.
Perhaps the most enduring symbol of casual 50s fashion is the poodle skirt. Created by Juli Lynne Charlot, these felt skirts, often adorned with embellishments, epitomized youthful style. Paired with tight-knitted twinsets, they offered a more relaxed interpretation of the full-skirted silhouette.
A Decade of Transformation
The 1950s marked a transformative period in women’s fashion. From the structured elegance of the New Look to the casual comfort of sportswear and the youthful exuberance of the poodle skirt, the decade celebrated a diverse range of styles. This era of experimentation laid the groundwork for the fashion revolutions of the following decades. The availability of choices, rather than adherence to a single trend, truly defined women’s 50s fashion.
