The 1890s marked a significant shift in men’s fashion, transitioning from the more formal styles of previous decades towards a more relaxed and practical approach. This era saw the rise of sportswear influenced by the growing popularity of activities like cycling, tennis, and rowing. Let’s delve into the defining characteristics of 1890s men’s fashion.
The Slim Silhouette and Emerging Trends
The prevailing silhouette of the 1890s was long and lean, characterized by standing collars and high-crowned hats. While maintaining a slender overall look, trouser cuts became looser. This decade represented a move towards informality, with styles previously considered casual becoming acceptable for business and even some evening events.
Undergarments and Daywear
High-collared shirts, often reaching three inches, were typically made of heavily starched cotton. Wingtip collars and shirt studs were fashionable details. Striped or colored shirts gained popularity for less formal occasions. The rise of department stores made ready-made underwear readily available.
Formal daywear still centered around the frock coat, but the less formal morning coat was steadily gaining ground. Fabric choice dictated the level of formality, with dark colors for formal occasions and tweed for casual wear. The morning coat suit became the standard for businessmen. The lounge coat, or sack coat, offered the most casual option and was favored by the working class while also gaining acceptance among the upper class for casual daytime attire. Three-piece suits, also known as ditto suits, made from the same fabric, were commonplace. Waistcoats, known as vests in America, saw a resurgence in colorful fabrics, often single-breasted with or without lapels.
The Rise of Sportswear
The increasing popularity of sports led to the development of specialized clothing. Reefer jackets without waistcoats were favored for seaside activities and sporting events. The Norfolk jacket, with its vertical pleats for ease of movement, was a popular choice for shooting, often paired with breeches (knickerbockers) and boots or gaiters. Lounge suits in lighter fabrics and stripes were fashionable for yachting, tennis, and seaside outings, frequently accompanied by a straw boater hat. The blazer, a variation of the lounge jacket, often in navy blue, stripes, or bright colors, was a popular choice for sailing. The cycling craze further fueled the demand for sportswear, with any of the aforementioned options deemed suitable. Norfolk jackets and breeches, when worn for cycling, were usually paired with stockings and low shoes.
Eveningwear and Outerwear
Formal evening wear remained largely unchanged, with the dark tailcoat and white tie combination still the standard. The dinner jacket, or tuxedo, was becoming an acceptable alternative for less formal evening occasions. This more elaborate version of the sack coat had been introduced in the previous decade.
Outerwear consisted of knee-length topcoats and calf-length overcoats, often adorned with fur or velvet collars.
Hairstyles, Headwear, and Footwear
Short hairstyles parted to the side, pointed beards, and full mustaches were the fashion. Top hats were still de rigueur for formal events. Bowler hats, with increasingly tall crowns, were a popular informal choice. The fedora, with its soft structure and low creased crown, was introduced during this decade. Edward VII, then Prince of Wales, popularized a variation known as the homburg.
Ankle boots were the most common footwear, typically made of leather with a contrasting cloth upper. Pointed toes were fashionable. Brown and black were the standard colors, with white introduced for summer wear. Black socks were worn even with white shoes. Sock suspenders, or shirt stays, made their debut. Rubber and canvas shoes emerged for sports, paving the way for the modern sneaker. Low laced pumps were standard evening footwear.
Accessories
Ascots or four-in-hand knotted neckties, secured with a stickpin, were the standard neckwear. Bowties made a comeback. Pocket watches, canes, and cufflinks were popular accessories. Gloves, though still worn for day and evening, were increasingly optional. Spats gained popularity during the 1890s. This era showcases a fascinating blend of tradition and emerging trends, laying the foundation for many stylistic elements that would continue to influence men’s fashion in the 20th century.
