The 1980s witnessed a vibrant expression of Black lesbian identity in Britain, particularly through fashion. Often termed “Roots” style, this unique blend of cultural clothing challenged prevailing fashion narratives and asserted a powerful statement of self and community. This article explores the significance of Roots style within the context of 80s Black fashion for women, examining its historical context and its role in shaping Black lesbian identity.
Roots Style: A Fusion of Cultures
Roots style encompassed a diverse array of garments and accessories, drawing inspiration from various African, Asian, and Caribbean cultures. Headwraps, dashikis, saris, Punjabi suits, and vibrant African-print fabrics were common features. This fusion often incorporated Western fashion elements, creating a unique aesthetic that reflected the complex interplay of belonging to both Black and gay communities in Britain.
Fig 1: Femi Otitoju at the Lesbian Strength March in 1985. While not definitively “Roots,” her attire highlights a departure from mainstream 80s lesbian fashion trends.
Blackman and Perry, in their 1990 article “Skirting the Issue: Lesbian Fashion for the 1990s,” described Roots as a visual representation of the “tension of belonging to both Black and gay cultures.” This style allowed Black lesbians to express their multifaceted identities without compromising either their cultural heritage or their sexual orientation.
The Rise of Black Lesbian Identity in 1980s Britain
The 1980s marked a pivotal moment for Black lesbians in Britain, with the formation of numerous organizations dedicated to fostering community and advocating for their rights. The London Black Lesbian and Gay Centre, founded in 1985, played a crucial role in defining and supporting this burgeoning identity.
Fig 2: A 1987 newsletter from the Camden Lesbian Centre and Black Lesbian Group underscores the growing visibility of Black lesbian communities.
The emergence of these groups coincided with a broader understanding of “Black” as encompassing individuals of African, Asian, Latin American, and Indigenous descent. This inclusivity underscored the shared experiences of marginalization and the need for solidarity within these communities.
Fashion as a Form of Resistance
Roots style provided a powerful means of self-expression and resistance against the prevailing norms of both mainstream society and the predominantly white lesbian community. By embracing their cultural heritage through clothing, Black lesbians challenged the pressure to assimilate and asserted their right to be visibly Black and lesbian.
Fig 3: A leaflet for the Camden Black Lesbian Group promotes a space for community building and shared identity.
A 1983 documentary about the Gay Black Group highlighted the challenges faced by Black women in coming out, emphasizing the societal pressures and expectations placed upon them. Roots style offered a way to reclaim their identity and connect with their cultural roots.
Navigating Intersectionality Through Style
While Roots affirmed Black lesbian identity, it also highlighted the complexities of navigating intersectionality. Rani Kawale’s 2004 research revealed the ongoing challenges faced by Black women in predominantly white lesbian spaces, where they often felt pressured to downplay their cultural identity in order to fit in.
Fig 4: Maud Sulter’s 1989 portrait of Dorothea Smartt showcases the power of visual representation in celebrating Black female identity and cultural heritage.
Dorothea Smartt, a poet and activist, recounted her experiences of wearing African clothing in predominantly white gay clubs, underscoring the persistent need for visibility and self-expression.
A Legacy of Self-Expression
Roots style represents a significant chapter in the history of 80s Black fashion for women in Britain. It served as a powerful tool for self-definition, community building, and resistance against societal pressures. By embracing their cultural heritage through clothing, Black lesbians created a vibrant and enduring legacy of self-expression that continues to resonate today. The story of Roots is a testament to the enduring power of fashion as a means of asserting identity and challenging the status quo.
