The 90s were a pivotal decade for fashion globally, but Japan’s scene was particularly vibrant. From high fashion houses making waves on international runways to the explosion of street style in Harajuku, 90’s Japan fashion was a unique blend of tradition and rebellion. Let’s explore nine iconic trends that defined this era.
Decora: A Colorful Rebellion
Emerging in the late 90s, Decora was an explosion of color and cuteness. This Harajuku street style featured layers upon layers of bright accessories, plastic beads, cartoon motifs, and playful hair clips. Decora’s influence continues to resonate in Japanese street fashion today.
Kogyaru (Kogal): The Schoolgirl Revolution
Inspired by school uniforms, the Kogyaru (or Kogal) look was adopted by teenage girls in Shibuya and Harajuku. Short pleated skirts, loose socks, Burberry scarves (often knock-offs), and designer accessories were key elements. Kogals frequented purikura (photo booths), documenting their style and contributing to its widespread popularity. The trend evolved from kawaii to a more mature aesthetic as the decade progressed.
Shibu Kaji (Shibuya Casual): Understated Elegance
Shibuya Casual, popular among high school and college students, defined early 90s mainstream fashion. This style emphasized classic pieces: blue blazers, Levi’s jeans, and Louis Vuitton bags created a sophisticated, understated look. It represented a departure from more flamboyant trends, focusing on quality and timeless appeal.
Fure Kaji (French Casual): Parisian Chic in Japan
The arrival of French brand Agnes B. ignited a passion for French fashion in Japan. Fure Kaji, inspired by Parisian style, mirrored Shibuya Casual’s elegance but with a distinct French touch. Monochromatic palettes (black, white, beige) or the French flag’s colors dominated, with berets, trench coats, and striped shirts as essential items.
Paragal (Paradise Girl): Challenging Norms
Paragal, short for “Paradise Girl,” emerged in the early 90s, drawing inspiration from LA’s resort wear. This trend challenged societal norms with more revealing and form-fitting clothing, offering a unique expression of femininity. Paragal paved the way for the even bolder Gyaru style of the early 2000s.
Visual Kei: Theatrical Rock Style
Originating in the 80s, Visual Kei was heavily influenced by Japanese rock bands like X Japan and Luna Sea. Flamboyant costumes, dramatic makeup, elaborate hairstyles, and colored contacts defined the look. This theatrical style, though toned down for everyday wear, became increasingly mainstream in the 90s. Various sub-styles, such as Nagoya Kei and Angura Kei, further diversified the trend.
Urahara Kei: The Birth of Japanese Streetwear
Urahara Kei, born in Harajuku’s backstreets, revolutionized streetwear. Brands like GOODENOUGH and A Bathing Ape fused Americana and hip-hop influences with Japanese aesthetics. Graphic tees, military-inspired workwear, logo hoodies, and heavy denim became hallmarks of this influential style.
Lolita: Victorian Doll-Like Charm
Lolita, with its Victorian and Rococo influences, aimed for a childlike or doll-like appearance. Knee-length dresses with petticoats, knee-high socks, and an emphasis on cuteness were central to the style. The 90s saw the rise of Lolita brands like Angelic Pretty and Metamorphose, solidifying its place in Japanese fashion and leading to various sub-styles like Gothic Lolita and Hime Lolita.
Karasu-zoku (Crow Tribe): Anti-Kawaii Movement
Karasu-zoku (“Crow Tribe”) emerged as a stark contrast to kawaii culture. Oversized black clothing, often from high-fashion designers like Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, created a somber and androgynous silhouette. This anti-establishment style embraced avant-garde designs and challenged conventional notions of beauty.
