The 1950s are often remembered for Christian Dior’s iconic “New Look,” with its cinched waists and full skirts. However, Fifties Fashion was much more diverse than this single silhouette. As fashion curator Daniel Milford-Cottam notes in Fashion in the 1950s, women had a variety of stylish options. “Two ladies could walk down the street in different outfits, yet appear equally modish, be their skirts full and narrow, or one in a form-fitting sheath and the other in a loose sack dress.” (13) This newfound freedom of choice in fashion was a defining characteristic of the era.
The Evolution of Fifties Fashion: From Full Skirts to Straight Cuts
This expansion of style choices continued throughout the decade, fueled by innovative designers like Cristobal Balenciaga, Charles James, and Hubert de Givenchy. Their introduction of new silhouettes challenged the dominance of the New Look. James Laver, in Costume and Fashion: A Concise History, observes that “As the decade progressed, clothing became less structured and straighter in cut” (258). Designers like Chanel, Dior, and Balenciaga embraced the straight-cut suit, which, unlike the New Look, emphasized a woman’s natural form with a jacket falling at the hip’s widest point.
Later in the fifties, sheath dresses and high-waisted chemise dresses gained popularity. Balenciaga’s 1957 introduction of the chemise dress marked a significant shift towards looser, less constricting garments.
Beyond Haute Couture: Sportswear and Casual Fifties Fashion
While haute couture flourished, sportswear remained a popular choice. American designer Claire McCardell, known for her practical and comfortable designs, continued her success from the 1940s with wrap dresses and introduced pedal pushers with coordinating tops (Laver 258). Young women embraced McCardell’s sportswear and other casual styles like sundresses and swimsuits, providing a counterpoint to the formality of Parisian high fashion.
The poodle skirt became an enduring symbol of casual fifties fashion. Created by Juli Lynne Charlot, these felt skirts, often adorned with various embellishments (not just poodles), were typically paired with tight-fitting twinsets. Despite their casual nature, poodle skirts still echoed the New Look’s silhouette with a defined waist and full skirt.
A Decade of Transformation: Fifties Fashion’s Lasting Impact
The 1950s witnessed a significant evolution in women’s fashion. From the structured elegance of the New Look to the emergence of diverse styles and the continued popularity of sportswear, fifties fashion offered a range of choices that reflected a changing society. This era’s emphasis on both elegance and casual comfort continues to influence fashion today.
