France, Paris, ca. 1244-1254 MS M.638 fol. 42v
France, Paris, ca. 1244-1254 MS M.638 fol. 42v

1200s Fashion: A Glimpse into Medieval Women’s Attire

The 13th century, or the 1200s, marked a significant shift in medieval European fashion. While less extravagant than the preceding era, 1200s Fashion for women showcased a unique blend of comfort and elegance. This article delves into the essential garments of the time, supported by visual examples from historical sources.

Modesty and Restraint: Defining Characteristics

Women’s fashion in the 1200s emphasized modesty and restraint. Narrow belts cinched garments at the waist, creating a flattering silhouette. Embroidery and fur-lined mantles distinguished the attire of wealthier women. Like men, women wore hose and leather shoes for practical purposes.

Key Garments of the 1200s

The Underdress: Foundation of the Ensemble

Underneath the outer layers, women wore a chemise or shift, a simple linen garment crucial for hygiene and comfort. These underdresses often featured long, tight sleeves, sometimes visible at the wrists of the outer garment.

The Cote or Kirtle: A Versatile Staple

The cote, also known as a kirtle, formed the base layer of the visible attire. This versatile garment, with fitted sleeves and a relatively loose body, could be worn with or without a belt. Some cotes featured open armpits, allowing the sleeves to be pulled back for practicality. Elaborate decorations adorned the cotes of noblewomen.

The Cyclas: A Statement of Status

The cyclas, a long, sleeveless tunic, emerged as a prominent garment in the 1200s. Initially a rectangular piece of fabric with a head opening, the cyclas evolved into a more tailored garment. Worn over the cote, it denoted a higher social standing.

The Surcote: Variety and Elegance

Noblewomen often wore surcotes over their cotes, adding another layer of elegance. These outer garments came in various styles, distinguished by embroidery and embellishments. While the cyclas remained a popular choice, other forms of surcotes also existed, showcasing the diversity of 1200s fashion.

The Gardecorp: Protection and Practicality

The gardecorp, a wide, long-sleeved garment, provided warmth and protection. Sleeves often featured openings near the armpits for practicality. Ranging in length from knee to full-length, the gardecorp often included a hood and remained fashionable well into the 1300s.

The Mantle: An Essential Outer Layer

Mantles, simple yet elegant, were essential outerwear for both men and women. Typically worn by noblewomen, these capes provided warmth and could be fastened with a cord across the chest. Fur lining denoted wealth and status.

Conclusion: Elegance in Simplicity

1200s fashion for women, while seemingly simple compared to later periods, offered a range of styles and reflected social status. The cote, cyclas, surcote, and gardecorp formed the foundation of women’s wardrobes, complemented by essential accessories like mantles and belts. The elegance of 1200s fashion lay in its understated sophistication and practicality.

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