The 1810s witnessed a dramatic shift in fashion, moving away from the simple lines of Neoclassicism and embracing the ornate Romantic era. This period saw a rise in elaborate trims, rich textiles, and military-inspired details, shaping a distinct silhouette that defined the decade.
Embellishments and the Rise of Romantic Style
A defining characteristic of 1810s Fashion was the increasing use of embellishments. As early as 1812, skirts featured horizontal tucks at the hem, evolving into intricate flounces of lace and scalloped edges by 1815. The 1820s ushered in even richer adornments, with satin rouleaux (stuffed tubes of fabric), puffs, and elaborate embroidery. This emphasis on ornamentation extended to bodices and sleeves, with mancherons (sleeve caps) and puffed shoulder detailing becoming particularly fashionable (Fig. 8). These decorative elements marked a departure from Neoclassical simplicity and reflected the growing influence of Romanticism.
This era drew inspiration from 16th and 17th-century styles, incorporating elements like panes and puffs mimicking slashing, ruff collars (Figs. 8, 10), vandyked edges, and elongated sleeves. The fashionable “Marie” sleeve, characterized by its banded puffs (Fig. 9), exemplified this Romantic historicism.
Military Influences and Outerwear
The Napoleonic Wars significantly impacted 1810s fashion, particularly in outerwear. Pelisses, redingotes (long coats), and spencers (cropped jackets) (Fig. 10) were popular choices. By 1817, the pelisse evolved into the pelisse-robe, a versatile coat-dress. Military-inspired trims, such as braid, tassels, frogging, and cords, adorned these garments. The elaborate uniforms of the Hussar cavalry, with their distinctive horizontal braid and Brandenburg buttons (Fig. 11), served as a key inspiration.
Textiles and the Kashmir Shawl
The 1810s saw a diversification of textiles. Firmer cottons and silks replaced the delicate muslins of the previous era. While white remained fashionable, brighter colors and patterns, like stripes, gained popularity. Lightweight, transparent nets, made more accessible by John Heathcoat’s bobbin-net machine patented in 1808, became a staple for evening wear, often layered over silk satin slips (Fig. 12). Silk “blonde” lace was also highly sought after. These materials added a touch of Romantic softness to the otherwise stiffer fabrics.
Imported Kashmiri shawls, prized for their intricate designs and luxurious feel, were a coveted accessory (Fig. 6). The high cost of these shawls led to the growth of imitation production, particularly in Paisley, Scotland, which became synonymous with the distinctive boteh/buta (paisley) motif.
The Evolution of the 1810s Silhouette
By the end of the 1810s, the flowing drapery of the previous decades had given way to a more structured silhouette. While retaining a sense of femininity, the fashions of this era embraced stiffer fabrics and increased ornamentation, creating a distinctive look that marked the transition into the Romantic era (Fig. 13).
