The late 1670s marked a significant shift in women’s fashion with the introduction of the mantua. This new style replaced the rigid, boned bodice-and-skirt with a looser, draped gown designed to showcase luxurious silk designs. The mantua’s name is believed to originate from Mantua, Italy, a renowned center for silk production. Alternatively, it may derive from the French word “manteau,” meaning coat.
The Evolution of Mantua Dress
The mantua resembled a coat, with sleeves integrated into the front and back panels. Pleated at the shoulders and cinched at the waist with a sash, it flowed into a bustle-like shape at the back, worn over a coordinating petticoat. Over time, the front pleats diminished, and the bodice opened, revealing a stiffened, triangular piece of fabric called a stomacher. This stomacher, often elaborately embroidered in early examples, covered the torso and tapered into a narrow waist. While seemingly substantial, these gowns relied on pins to secure the stomacher.
From Informal Wear to Court Dress
Initially considered informal and even banned from the French court by Louis XIV, the mantua gradually gained acceptance as formal attire. It became a staple of English court dress, remaining popular until the mid-18th century. The mantua’s widespread popularity even led to dressmakers being known as “mantua-makers.” This demonstrates the garment’s profound impact on the fashion industry of the time.
The mantua’s evolution reflects a broader shift in societal attitudes towards women’s fashion, favoring comfort and showcasing opulent fabrics. Its lasting legacy is evident in the terminology associated with dressmaking and the continued influence of draping techniques in modern fashion design. The mantua remains a key example of how a single garment can revolutionize an entire era of clothing.
