The 1980s punk scene in London was a breeding ground for counter-culture movements, and among them, the Rebel Dykes stood out. This group of lesbian punks carved a space for themselves through their distinctive fashion, using clothing as a powerful tool to express identity, forge community, and resist societal norms. A key element of their rebellious style? The punk fashion jacket. Let’s delve into the significance of these jackets and the broader fashion choices of the Rebel Dykes.
Fig. 1: Rebel Dykes sporting their signature punk fashion, including leather jackets, in 1980s London. Photo by Laney Shimmin.
Fashion served as a visual language for the Rebel Dykes, instantly signaling their affiliation to each other and their outsider status to the mainstream. Leather jackets, often adorned with paint, badges, and symbols, were a cornerstone of this visual code. Siobhan Fahey, a former Rebel Dyke and producer of the documentary film “Rebel Dykes,” notes that their fashion was groundbreaking for its time, prefiguring trends that would become more widespread in later decades. Brightly colored hair, multiple tattoos, and piercings were all markers of their cultural deviance and punk rock aesthetic.
Fig. 2: A group of Rebel Dykes in 1980s London, showcasing the prevalence of punk fashion jackets within their community. Photo by Laney Shimmin.
Punk Fashion Jackets: Protection and Politics
Beyond their aesthetic value, punk fashion jackets, particularly leather biker jackets, served a practical purpose: protection. In a hostile environment, the thick leather provided a degree of physical safety. However, the leather jacket also carried political weight. Its association with sex-radicalism and the SM scene, particularly through the popular Rebel Dyke hangout, the SM club Chain Reaction, led to their exclusion from certain lesbian feminist spaces during the period of the Lesbian Sex Wars.
Siobhan Fahey emphasizes the potent symbolism of the leather jacket: “It’s incredible to think how political the leather jacket was […] specifically a leather biker jacket because they were associated with SM dykes.” This association, while alienating to some, was a badge of honor for the Rebel Dykes, solidifying their position as rebels within the broader lesbian community.
DIY Punk Fashion: Customization and Symbolism
Punk fashion was inherently anti-establishment, rejecting mass-produced clothing in favor of DIY customization. Ripped clothing, hand-painted designs, and an abundance of badges and pins were the norm. This spirit of individual expression was central to the Rebel Dykes’ aesthetic. Siobhan recalls that “everyone would paint on their jackets […] and badges were huge.” These personalized garments became canvases for powerful symbolism.
Fig. 3: Rebel Dyke Debbie Smith in London, 1980s, demonstrating the individualized style within punk fashion. Photo by Laney Shimmin.
Symbols like the labrys (a double-headed axe representing lesbianism and female strength), the pink and black triangles (reclaimed from Nazi persecution), and the color lavender (with its long history in lesbian culture) were prominently displayed. Unlike the commodified rainbow flag of today, these symbols were deeply personal and politically charged, representing pain, reclamation, and the fight for liberation. They were painstakingly created and displayed, reflecting the lack of readily available queer merchandise at the time.
The Legacy of Rebel Dyke Fashion
The Rebel Dykes’ embrace of craft and customization connected their fashion to a broader feminist tradition of reclaiming traditionally devalued forms of art. By transforming their clothing, they symbolically rejected societal hierarchies and asserted their autonomy.
Fig. 4: Rebel Dykes Peri, Robyn, Aimee, and Pat in 1980s London, demonstrating the camaraderie and shared aesthetic of the group. Photo by Laney Shimmin.
The Rebel Dykes’ influence on contemporary fashion is undeniable. Their pioneering spirit paved the way for the wider acceptance of tattoos, piercings, and brightly colored hair. Their defiant use of punk fashion jackets as symbols of rebellion and lesbian identity remains a powerful testament to the enduring connection between fashion and social change. The legacy of the 1980s lesbian punk scene, with its customized leather jackets and potent symbolism, continues to resonate today.
