The late 17th and early 18th centuries marked a pivotal transition in men’s fashion, bridging the gap between the extravagance of the Baroque era and the nascent elegance of Rococo. This period, much like the 1840s in the 19th century, witnessed a fascinating evolution of styles, making precise dating a challenge. A portrait from the National Portrait Gallery in London, dated anywhere between 1695 and 1720, exemplifies this ambiguity. This era saw menswear take center stage, boasting more flamboyant and dramatic changes than its comparatively restrained female counterpart.
The Evolution of Men’s Attire: A Revolution in Style
This stylistic shift originated from the rigid silhouettes of the earlier 17th century, characterized by neck ruffs, doublets, and ornate lace. The Thirty Years’ War played a significant role, with its conclusion ushering in a move away from militaristic influences. Let’s examine the key transformations:
The Rise of the Justaucorps
The defining garment of this period for men was the justaucorps, a fitted coat reaching the knee. Evolving from looser, shorter coats of the 1660s, the justaucorps featured:
- Fitted Sleeves and Turned-Up Cuffs: This dramatic sleeve style became fashionable in the 1680s, replacing the slashed or buttoned sleeves of earlier decades.
- Side-Front Pockets: A practical and stylish addition, these pockets could be either vertical or horizontal.
The Transformation of Breeches
The voluminous breeches of the mid-17th century gave way to a more fitted style by the 1670s. This new silhouette was further enhanced by:
- Stockings Worn Over Breeches: This created an illusion of elongated legs.
- Garters Below the Knee: This added a decorative touch and secured the stockings.
The Reign of the Wig
Wigs, or periwigs, became an essential element of men’s fashion. Often made of natural hair and parted in the middle, they underwent a dramatic evolution:
- Increasing Volume: Wigs grew progressively larger towards the end of the 17th century.
- Tight Curls: The early 18th century saw the emergence of tightly curled wigs.
Shirts, Cravats, and Accessories
Underneath the justaucorps, the voluminous shirt remained a staple, though less visible due to the waistcoat. However, shirt cuffs became highly decorative with lace ruffles. The long falling collar disappeared, replaced by the increasingly prominent cravat. A ribbon bow, added to the cravat in the 1660s, gradually increased in size and complexity. Accessories included:
- Tricorn Hats: Emerging in the 1680s, the tricorn became a defining headwear of the era.
- Sword Belts: A symbol of status and masculinity.
Women’s Fashion: The Introduction of the Mantua
The most significant development in women’s fashion during this period was the introduction of the mantua in the 1680s. Initially considered informal attire, this gown eventually became a sophisticated garment, characterized by:
- Single Piece Construction: The mantua was crafted from a single length of fabric, showcasing the intricate patterns of contemporary silks.
- Pleats and Contrasting Elements: Later versions featured pleats and were worn with contrasting petticoats and stomachers, often looped at the back to reveal the petticoat underneath.
- Evolution of Sleeves and Decoration: Full sleeves transitioned to tighter styles, and embellishments shifted from stiff lace to ribbons, bows, and more delicate lace.
The hairstyles of the period also saw a transformation, moving from wide, voluminous styles to upward volume, often adorned with the elaborate fontange headdress.
This era of 17th-century fashion represents a dynamic shift in style, laying the foundation for the elegant and refined aesthetics of the 18th century. The evolution of the justaucorps, the emergence of the mantua, and the increasing importance of accessories like wigs and cravats all contributed to a truly transformative period in men’s and women’s clothing.
