The intertwined history of Fashion And Fragrances dates back to the turn of the 20th century. The 1900 Paris Exhibition, a pivotal moment for Art Nouveau and the rise of the modern woman, saw Guerlain, a renowned perfumer, introduce Voilà Pourquoi J’Aimais Rosine. This groundbreaking fragrance, housed in an artistic bottle resembling a vase adorned with silk flowers, marked a departure from traditional floral scents and ushered in a new era of innovative perfume presentation.
Fashion, often reflecting fleeting trends, finds a timeless counterpart in fragrance. As Elizabeth Barille notes in The Book of Perfume, the great fashion houses of the 20th century embraced fragrances not only to project their image but also for their significant economic contribution. Perfume sales, representing a substantial portion of luxury goods exports, helped sustain the financially demanding world of Haute Couture. While in the 1920s, Haute Couture paved the way for designer perfumes, today, fragrances play a crucial role in ensuring the survival of high fashion.
Paul Poiret: A Pioneer in Fashion and Fragrances
Paul Poiret, a visionary couturier, stands out as a pioneer in merging fashion and fragrances. In 1912, he launched Rosine, a fragrance named after his daughter. Inspired by the Vienna Secession Movement, Poiret envisioned fragrances as a way to democratize his artistic vision, allowing women who couldn’t afford his clothing to experience a touch of his aesthetic. His company, a testament to his holistic approach to design, encompassed not only fragrances but also packaging and accessories, all bearing the names of his children. Poiret’s approach prefigured the modern lifestyle brand, much like Ralph Lauren’s empire today.
Poiret’s innovations extended to perfume presentation. His collaborations with Erté resulted in stunning creations like Le Minaret (1913), with a bottle encased in tulle and gold thread, and Nuit de Chine (1913), a snuff bottle-inspired design featuring Chinese characters and the groundbreaking use of Bakelite with glass. These examples highlight Poiret’s enduring legacy as an innovator in both scent and style.
Lucile: A Precursor to Designer Fragrances
While Poiret’s contributions are undeniable, fashion historian Randy Bryan Bigham points to Lucile (Lady Duff Gordon) as a precursor to designer fragrances. As early as 1907, Lucile offered bespoke scents in her London salon, complementing her “emotional gowns” designed to reflect each client’s personality. These fragrances, sold as bottles and sachets, often incorporated scents like orrisroot and heather. Lucile’s New York branch later introduced scents like “Lilac Blossoms” and “Shamrock,” further solidifying the link between fashion and personal fragrance.
Both Poiret and Lucile played pivotal roles in establishing the enduring connection between fashion and fragrances. Their innovative approaches to scent creation and presentation laid the foundation for the modern designer fragrance industry, where scent serves as an extension of a brand’s identity and aesthetic. The legacy of these pioneers continues to influence the way we experience and understand the relationship between fashion and fragrance today.
