The 1940s was a defining decade for men’s fashion, marked by both wartime austerity and post-war optimism. 1940s Mens Fashion aimed to project an image of strength and confidence, even amidst global uncertainty. While fabric rationing during World War II (1941-1945) impacted material availability for suits, it didn’t diminish the era’s distinctive style. Middle-class men largely maintained the classic business suit silhouette that had been evolving since the early 20th century.
In stark contrast to the mainstream, the Zoot Suit emerged as a vibrant and rebellious subculture. Characterized by its bold colors, excessively baggy trousers, and dramatically long jackets, the Zoot Suit was an expression of individuality and defiance, particularly popular among inner-city youth.
The unique character of 1940s mens fashion lies in the specific cuts, patterns, and stylistic nuances of the clothing. These elements reflected not only personal taste but also, often, a visible declaration of patriotic sentiment or dissent.
Key features of 1940s mens fashion included high-waisted, wide-leg trousers, suit and sport coats with broad lapels, shirts with wide collars, bold and wide neckties, two-tone Oxford shoes, and wide-brim fedora hats. The emphasis on volume and generous cuts throughout 1940s clothing offered a striking contrast to today’s slim-fit trends, prioritizing comfort and a more substantial silhouette.
Let’s delve into the history of 1940s fashion and explore the typical attire of civilian men.
1940s Men’s Fashion History: Wartime Influence and Style Evolution
1930s men’s fashion was known for its expansive proportions – large suits, wide pants, bold prints, and vibrant colors. 1940s men’s clothes refined this silhouette, tempering the exaggerated features of the previous decade into a more balanced look from shoulder to hem. These adjustments were also driven by wartime fabric conservation efforts.
During World War II, the U.S. War Production Board imposed regulations on men’s clothing, mirroring restrictions placed on women’s fashion. 1940s suits were subject to limitations: pocket flaps were eliminated, trouser widths were capped at 19 inches, cuffs were disallowed, and vests (waistcoats) were often omitted from suit sets. Despite the ban on cuffs, their popularity led men to purchase longer trousers and create cuffs at home.
In wartime Britain, clothing restrictions were even more stringent. Jacket designs were prohibited from having pleated backs, metal fastenings like zippers or buttons, raglan sleeves, or half belts.
Many men continued to wear their pre-war 1930s wardrobes into the early 1940s. Wearing older suits and overcoats became a symbol of wartime support and resourcefulness. Shoes were meticulously repaired, and hats were reshaped to extend their lifespan. Used clothing was passed down within families and repurposed into new garments.
Wartime clothing restrictions continued to influence 1940s mens fashion design even after the war, with military uniforms inspiring civilian styles. Trench coats, bomber jackets, knit undershirts, pea coats, chino pants, and aviator glasses all have roots in WWII military clothing.
The abundance of military surplus after the war led to civilians adopting military garments for everyday wear for years to come. Advances in machinery, textiles, and manufacturing techniques used for military clothing contributed to the post-war boom in ready-to-wear civilian fashion, offering affordable new fabrics and faster production methods.
The most significant impact of WWII restrictions on men’s fashion was the acceleration of casualization. Men grew weary of restrictive uniforms and formal suits. The newfound comfort and freedom offered by casual 40s clothes was widely embraced.
Hawaiian shirts, for instance, became acceptable attire for day and evening wear during summer. Strict dress codes became difficult to maintain as many people struggled to afford extensive wardrobes, even after the war.
Ironically, the Zoot Suit, initially seen as rebellious during the war, significantly influenced post-war men’s clothing. Longer, looser jackets, double-pleated pants, large hats, and wider ties, elements of the Zoot Suit, gradually permeated mainstream late 40s mens fashion.
Men were eager to leave wartime constraints behind and embrace previously forbidden styles.
1940s Men’s Fashion Suits: The Foundation of the Wardrobe
Throughout the 1940s, suits remained essential for men’s daily wear, appropriate for office work, picnics, and dinners out. Even working-class and less affluent men aspired to own at least one suit or sport coat for church services, holidays, and special occasions.
Men’s 1940s suits were typically crafted from heavy wool, worsted wool, or tweed. Wartime material shortages often led to the use of synthetic rayon fabrics blended with wool.
1940s suit colors for men were generally muted, including black, navy, grey, dark brown, tan, and medium blue. Summer suits featured lighter shades such as medium grey, brown, medium blue, teal blue-green, and tan. White and ivory, once highly fashionable in the 1930s, became less common, primarily worn in hot, tropical climates.
Solid colors were less prevalent in 1940s suits. Tweed, herringbone, check, pinstripes, and overplaids were popular suiting patterns. Wide chalk stripes were also a signature pattern of the decade.
Single-breasted suit jackets typically had two or three buttons, wide padded shoulders, patch or slit pockets, and a slight taper at the waist. Lapels were wide, either notch or peak, with rounded edges. The wider cut created a more substantial appearance, despite being less voluminous than 1930s styles.
Double-breasted jackets gained popularity in the 1940s for their added breadth, though wartime restrictions limited their availability.
Men’s 1940s suit vests (waistcoats) were considered less essential, both during and after the war, and many men opted to forgo them for greater comfort and coolness.
Matching suit vests were V-neck cut with six or seven buttons and pockets on each side. Alternatively, knit sweater vests became a fashionable substitute, worn with suits or sport coats.
1940s Men’s Trousers: High-Waisted and Wide-Legged
1940s suit trousers, slacks, or pants were typically flat-fronted or featured single pleats. They were designed to be worn high on the waist, above the navel, with a 3-inch wide waistband. Trouser legs were generously cut through the thigh and knee, tapering slightly towards the ankle, the opposite of contemporary “skinny” fits.
Suit trousers were typically straight-hemmed, as mandated during wartime, or finished with 2-inch trouser cuffs (turn-ups), a popular choice among American men.
Wide-leg and high-waisted pants are less common in modern retail, though this is gradually changing.
How did 1940s men keep their pants up? Suspenders were still used, although belts were gaining popularity.
1940s men’s suspenders were made of thick elastic stripes with button loops, attaching to buttons sewn inside the waistband. Clip-on suspenders emerged later in the decade.
Suspenders were generally concealed beneath a suit vest or sweater vest, or hidden by a suit or sport coat. Wearing exposed suspenders in public was considered akin to being in one’s underwear, especially in the presence of women.
1940s men’s belts increasingly replaced suspenders as pants became more fitted at the waist. Belts were about an inch wide with small metal buckles, often covered in matching leather. Leather colors included tan, brown, or black, with plain, pebbled, braided, or Western-stamped designs.
1940s Men’s Dress Shirts and Ties: Color and Bold Patterns
Men’s 1940s button-down dress shirts were paired with suits or worn alone with slacks. Made primarily from cotton, shirts featured attached, large pointed collars—known as spearpoint collars in the early 1940s—evolving to shorter, classic collars by the late 1940s. Modern collars are significantly smaller in comparison.
1940s shirts for men embraced color. While white was an option, men frequently chose blue, tan, yellow, green, or grey shirts in solid colors, thin stripes, or pin dot patterns. Shirts were always tucked in and could feature a single chest pocket.
The perfect tie was essential to complete a 1940s men’s suit ensemble. 1940s neckties were exclusively made from silk, rayon, and wool. They were panel ties (cut from a single piece of fabric) and quite wide, ranging from 3.5 to 4.5 inches. Ties were worn short, ending up to two inches above the high-waisted trouser waistband.
Bold geometric designs, swirling lines, monograms, and Art Deco motifs were rendered in bright, patriotic colors. Themes featuring animals, plants, flowers, birds, Western imagery, and tropical scenes were also widely popular.
1940s ties for men often reflected the wearer’s hobbies and interests, such as painting, fishing, or hunting. The more extravagant the tie, the better!
Bow ties remained in use but were less favored by younger men.
Pocket squares, also known as handkerchiefs, were indispensable for completing a 1940s suit. Made from rayon or silk post-war, they were often brightly colored or featured paisley or other classic patterns.
1940s men’s pocket squares were typically folded into a triangle and placed in the breast pocket with two or three points visible.
These decorative pocket squares were not meant for practical use; a plain white handkerchief was kept separately in a trouser pocket.
1940s Zoot Suits: Rebellion in Style
Zoot suits had gained initial popularity in the early 1930s, but by the 1940s, they became strongly associated with gangsters.
With most men serving overseas, the oversized Zoot Suit—which defied fabric rationing—was perceived as unpatriotic.
Zoot suits were often made in pinstriped yellow, green, bright blue, and purple fabrics, sharply contrasting with military drab.
The quintessential 1940s zoot suit featured an extremely loose, long, and wide two-button jacket with large notch lapels and exaggerated shoulder pads. It was worn with extremely baggy, high-waisted trousers that tapered sharply to a tight cuff at the ankle and were held up by suspenders.
A plain button-down shirt, wide tie, shiny leather shoes, and a wide-brimmed fedora hat completed the East Coast Zoot Suit look. In the West, a greased-back ducktail hairstyle often replaced the tie and hat.
Interestingly, despite being seen as unpatriotic during WWII, the Zoot Suit style influenced the new men’s fashion trends of the late 1940s and early 1950s.
Large double-breasted baggy suits with high waists, pleated trousers, and wide brim hats returned to fashion, reminiscent of the 1930s but with a touch of Zoot Suit flair.
1940s Working Class Clothing: Practical and Durable
For men in non-office roles, collared shirts and sturdy cotton twill or gabardine work trousers were standard. 1940s work trousers featured flat fronts and a single leg crease. Leg widths were generally narrower than suit or casual pants.
1940s workwear trousers colors were typically basic: tan, brown, navy, and hunter green, with occasional plaid variations.
Matching trouser and shirt sets were common for many blue-collar professions in the 1940s. Work shirts had open, soft pointed collars, two patch pockets, back pleating, and generous armholes for ease of movement. A solid color tie worn with work attire maintained a respectable public appearance.
Durable cotton canvas coveralls were worn by men in physically demanding or dirty jobs. 1940s men’s coveralls were one-piece garments that buttoned down the front, featuring a straight leg, belted waist, long sleeves, pointed collar, and large chest patch pockets for tools.
Denim overalls were another popular 1940s workwear choice, especially among farmers.
1940s Men’s Casual and Sport Clothing: Embracing Comfort
Post-war casualization opened the door for 1940s men’s knit shirts, vests, and pullovers to become dominant in leisure hours. Solid colors and wide stripes were simple options, but novelty prints and patterns added personality. Chain links, diamonds, Fair Isle, zigzags, plaid, and argyle patterns were fashionable and colorful.
Men and boys also embraced novelty designs depicting vacations, sports, hobbies, music, and Western themes.
Men’s knitted shirts were often made from textured ribbed knits with a snug fit, wide ribbed bottom, and narrower ribbed sleeve and neckbands. Necklines were typically round and high, with a V-neck as an alternative. The close fit was intended to emphasize a muscular physique.
Men’s 1940s knit sweater shirts could be worn tucked or untucked.
The jersey knit T-shirt was a relatively new casual garment in the 1940s. Initially considered underwear, 1940s T-shirts for men gained acceptance as outerwear after military service exposed men to wearing undershirts without an overshirt. T-shirts were cool, comfortable, and popular with younger generations.
1940s men’s T-shirts were made from flat, soft jersey knit with a high crew collar, short cap sleeves, and a short waist. Basic colors included navy blue, powder blue, army green, maroon, mustard yellow, and red, in solid colors but more commonly in thick and thin horizontal stripes. Striped T-shirts distinguished casual shirts from undershirts.
1940s men’s pullover sweater vests could be tucked in or worn untucked, with tucking being more common. Solid colors, wide horizontal stripes, and “Norwegian” patterns for winter were particularly popular. Sweater vests were layered over dress shirts and neckties, often topped with a sport coat.
Men’s 1940s V-neck sweater vests (pullovers) were made in similar styles and colors as shirts. Wool was used for winter warmth, while rayon/cotton blends were favored for summer. This three-piece ensemble was especially popular among spectators at sporting events.
Pullover colors typically contrasted with the underlying shirts and trousers, creating colorful outfits. Examples include a tan shirt with green slacks and a blue pullover, or a wine-colored shirt with navy pants and a grey pullover.
1940s men’s casual collared shirts could have long or short, boxy sleeves and a straight-cut hem. Large, soft collars could be worn buttoned up like dress shirts but were often worn open with the top button undone. Casual shirts typically featured two chest pockets with welt, button, or fold-over flaps.
Colors for 1940s casual shirts for men included plain tan, brown, blue, green, or maroon, as well as popular plaids, checks, windowpane patterns, and stripes.
The 1940s Hawaiian ‘Aloha’ shirt, featuring hand-painted tropical scenes, birds, and flowers, emerged after the war. 1940s Hawaiian shirts were worn untucked and had a loose fit. Imported from Hawaii, tropical-themed sport shirts also became part of mainland designer collections.
The popularity of American Western movies in Hollywood spurred interest in western style clothing for men and boys. Western shirts, hats, boots, and trousers were fashionable in both urban and rural settings. The “urban cowboy” trend arguably began in the 1940s.
1940s Casual Trousers: Variety in Fabrics and Patterns
Men’s 1940s trousers sold separately for casual daywear, sporting events, and some work environments offered more color and comfort than suit trousers.
1940s casual pants for men were made from lighter-weight wool blends for cooler months and lighter cotton poplins, gabardine (rayon blend), or seersucker for warmer climates. All-season fabrics included wool flannel, cassimere, and sharkskin.
1940s casual pants for men were available in solid colors like green, blue, and tan, as well as bolder patterns such as plaid, pinstripes, diagonal stripes, pin checks, and herringbone in medium blues, maroons, and browns. Early in the decade, colors and patterns tended to be brighter and bolder, including teal blue, baby yellow, and ocean green.
Casual 1940s men’s trousers featured a narrower high waist, fuller hips, and straight, wide legs. Flat fronts were preferred over single pleats, though both were acceptable.
1940s men’s trouser waistbands had dropped belt loops and were always worn with a thin leather belt. Shirts were tucked in to fully display the pants.
Casual shirts and pants in the 40s mens fashion era rarely matched. Instead, tan pants were paired with maroon shirts, plaid pants with brown shirts, pinstriped pants with blue shirts, and so on.
Men’s walking “shorts” emerged in the late 1940s. Pleated knee-length shorts were worn with T-shirts and polo shirts in summer. Shorter, thigh-high shorts were reserved for gym and sportswear.
1940s Men’s Sport Coats: Casual Jackets with Style
1940s men’s sport coats gained popularity in the 1930s and continued to be a trend. They were available in glenn plaids, herringbone, chevron checks, chalk stripes, and tweeds.
40s sport coats were paired with solid color pants that were darker than the coat, except for white pants, which were worn with navy sport coats. Sweater vests in bright colors provided contrast. Yellow, green, and orange sweater vests were common choices.
Men’s 1940s sport coats featured wide, rounded notch lapels, two large square pockets, and three-button closures. Pockets varied in style, including flap, slit, or patch pockets.
1940s Men’s Sweaters, Knitwear: Warmth and Texture
Men’s 1940s sweaters or jumpers typically featured wide or cable ribbing with a wide ribbed hem and cuffs that sat high on the waist. Necklines were crewneck or a small V-neck.
Cardigan sweaters were very popular, featuring a V-neck and buttons down the front. Some 1940s men’s cardigans had zippers and a small, rounded stand-up collar.
Sweater vests were another popular layering piece, substituting for suit vests. Plain designs or novelty, argyle, and two-tone patterns added visual interest to wardrobes. Lengths were short to meet the high-waisted trousers.
1940s Men’s Coats and Jackets: Outerwear Essentials
A wool overcoat was a winter staple for the 1940s man. Coats were cut straight and boxy, reaching the knee with a slight A-line shape. Shoulders were rounded, sometimes in Raglan cuts. Wide peak lapels and angled side slit pockets were characteristic. Buttons were often concealed by a long front flap.
After the war, double-breasted overcoats became popular, often worn with a wide waist belt. Common materials were tan, plaid, tweed, or herringbone wool with plaid cotton flannel or rayon-cotton blend linings.
The trench coat was another classic 1940s look, popularized by Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca (1942). It shared the overcoat’s boxy, knee-length shape but was worn without a belt, featuring side slit pockets and a small pointed collar with minimal lapels.
Later in the decade, a double-breasted, belted version emerged, featuring epaulets, wrist straps, and a D-ring belt loop (originally for grenades). Trench coats were typically made of tan cotton gabardine.
Lighter jackets for spring and fall, made from wool or cotton poplin, featured buttons, pointed collars, small lapels, and patch pockets.
Some 1940s men’s jackets were pullover styles without buttons, using cotton ribbed cuffs and hems instead, with crew or V-necks.
Jacket colors were neutral: tan, brown, or navy. For a more stylish look, navy or hunter green panels were sometimes incorporated into tan jackets.
The Gabardine jacket, named after its rayon-cotton twill fabric, is a highly sought-after and collectible 1940s jacket style. Its smooth material created a simple design with angled side slit pockets, five buttons (or a zipper in later 40s models), and an optional flapped chest pocket.
The jacket hung straight to the waist, fitted only with a half belt at the back and adjustable side belts. The soft, wide-pointed collar was worn loose and open for casual comfort.
Air Force flight jackets were highly desirable military surplus items for everyday wear. Made from brown leather, sometimes with cream fleece linings, they came in waist-length versions with pointed collars and snug cotton ribbing at cuffs and hems.
Longer flight jacket versions were belted at the waist with large front patch pockets. De-regulated flight jackets were quickly adopted by civilians post-war.
1940s Men’s Fashion Hats: A Headwear Staple
During the 1940s, hats were an indispensable part of men’s attire. The fedora, also known as a trilby, was the most prevalent style. It featured a 2.5-3 inch brim, a tall pinched front crown, and a center crease that was either flat-topped or angled back.
1940s men’s hats were made from wool felt in grey, black, dark brown, tan, or cream. The brim was typically bound with petersham ribbon, encircling the crown and finishing with a flat side bow, sometimes adorned with feathers.
The homburg was another popular felt hat of the 1940s, primarily in grey or blue, as black faded out of fashion by the mid-40s. It featured a tall crown with a moderate center crease and a brim curled all around, especially at the sides, creating an oblong shape.
The curled brim was less tightly rolled than in previous decades, resulting in a wider, looser fit. Black petersham ribbon bound the brim and hatband. The Homburg was typically worn slightly forward and down on the forehead. The 1940s marked the Homburg’s final decade of widespread popularity, except for a brief resurgence in the 1980s with the release of The Godfather films.
The pork pie hat was a distinctive 1940s hat. Similar to a Victorian Gambler hat, it was made of black or brown fur felt with a short, flat oval top and a deep crease around the oval. A wide, curled brim with a matching petersham rim distinguished the pork pie from the gambler hat.
Worn at an angle, with a thin leather hatband or wide petersham ribbon (matching the hat color) and a flat bow, the pork pie hat remained stylish alongside other felt hats of the 1940s.
In warmer climates, straw hats replaced wool hats. Woven straw hats in fedora, pork pie, and boater shapes continued to be worn, as they had been for the previous two decades.
1940s Men’s Shoes: Practical and Stylish Footwear
Shoes for men in the 1940s were available in limited styles. The most common everyday shoe was the lace-up Oxford, typically in dark leather brown with a thick sole and sturdy heel. Brogue detailing (small perforations) or a wingtip pattern were common embellishments.
Solid black Oxfords were reserved for formal suits and dark clothing, while white Oxfords were worn with light summer suits.
Two-tone brown and white Oxfords were a sportier, highly popular option, worn with both business suits and casual clothing. The white and brown patterns varied, making them a defining style of the 1940s.
Other casual shoe options included moccasin loafers, sandals for summer, winter boots, and sneakers for sports. Lace-up sneakers, similar to modern Converse shoes but with thicker soles, were available in high-top and low-top styles.
Men’s 1940s socks were typically worn to mid-calf height. Work socks were shorter, reaching just above the ankle. Made from ribbed wool, cotton, or rayon blends, they featured tighter ribbing at the top to hold them up. Common colors were dark brown, tan, blue, white, and grey.
Like ties, 1940s men’s socks also came in a wide array of colorful stripes, Art Deco patterns, and argyle designs.
As elastic was not yet widely used in socks, they tended to sag. Sock garters, elastic or leather straps with clips, helped to keep them up by gripping the sock and fastening tightly around the calf.
