André Carrara stands as a titan in the realm of fashion photography, a world that has seen its icons fade, leaving a void for new generations to fill. His book, Regards, is more than just a collection of photographs; it’s a deeply personal homage to women, who have consistently been his muses, sources of fascination, awe, and endless inspiration. This book serves as a testament to the profound impact women have had on Carrara’s artistic vision, driving his lifelong dedication to capturing their essence through his lens.
For Carrara, every woman is a subject of admiration, whether portrayed in understated beauty or captured in dynamic movement that exudes strength and resolve. His photographic style elevates the ordinary, revealing a unique perspective on femininity and style.
André Carrara’s distinctive talent lies in his ability to craft seemingly simple yet profoundly impactful scenes. Through his photographic narratives, he illuminates the personality and enigmatic nature of women, skillfully using his unique vision to enhance both the clothing and the model. His work in regards fashion is characterized by a signature aesthetic that balances meticulous preparation with the spontaneity of the moment.
Isabelle Cécile Le Mée aptly describes Carrara’s approach: “The power and beauty of André Carrara’s work lie in the delicate balance between planned precision and embracing chance. While each photograph is carefully conceived and staged, there’s an undeniable sense of immediacy and naturalness.” His photography spans across continents and diverse settings, rendered in both black and white and vibrant color, always with a nod to cinematic artistry. Carrara, much like directors Rossellini, Bergman, and Buñuel, immortalizes his subjects, drawing inspiration from iconic film scenes to create portraits that are both beautiful and narrative-rich. He meticulously crafts each shoot, selecting locations, establishing moods, and choosing his subjects as if casting for a film, all in pursuit of capturing a fleeting moment of perfect atmosphere and light.
Regards offers readers a backstage pass into Carrara’s captivating world, showcasing a photographic style that redefines the beauty of women in fashion. This book compiles his most iconic images for the first time, photographs that have not only documented fashion trends but have also become a part of our visual history, remaining strikingly relevant even today.
Dorothea Marciak emphasizes the lasting impact of Carrara’s work: “For over forty years, André Carrara’s iconic images have lived in the collective consciousness of women – and the men who admire them. His timeless and subtle elegance as a photographer deserves greater recognition.” Regards serves to address this, being the first comprehensive monograph dedicated to Carrara’s extensive career. In an industry marked by rapid change, Carrara has consistently presented women in their most flattering and magnificent contexts.
Whether featuring famous faces or emerging talents like Laetitia Casta, Mélanie Thierry, and Natalia Vodianova, Carrara’s “loving lens” brings out the true essence of each woman. Each subject, in turn, offers her unique beauty to his appreciative gaze. Carrara humbly attributes his success to hard work, loyalty to his team, inspiration drawn from imagining each woman’s story and emotions, and a touch of serendipity. He recounts a pivotal moment in Palermo, where a spontaneous street scene with a kitchen assistant and a passing girl sparked a whole series, illustrating how chance often plays a crucial role in his meticulously planned artistry. He believes that “Good Fortune is a woman,” favoring those who hold women in high esteem.
Photography historian Isabelle-Cécile Le Mée, co-author of How to Look at Photography, and a consultant with the Culture Ministry, provides insightful commentary in Regards. Her long-standing professional relationship and deep appreciation for André Carrara’s oeuvre make her an ideal voice to articulate the significance of his contributions to fashion photography.
Carrara himself remains unassuming despite his global influence. As Le Mée notes, “The man is discreet and humble, yet his photographs are globally recognized, published in countless editions of top fashion magazines both in France and internationally.”
منذ عام 1963, André Carrara has collaborated with leading art directors in fashion, beginning with Antoine Kieffer at Vogue France and later with Roman Cieslewicz at Elle. His collaboration with Cieslewicz, a celebrated graphic artist, was formative, refining Carrara’s style and leading to innovative graphic layouts. Carrara’s signature clarity and simplicity resonated with the magazine’s evolving artistic direction. After a three-year period in the U.S., contributing to Mademoiselle and Glamour, he returned to France in the early 1970s, resuming work with Elle and expanding his reach to Vogue’s British, German, and Italian editions. He also became a prominent photographer with the MAFIA advertising agency.
While the 1990s saw Carrara regularly contributing to Allure and other prestigious publications under Anna Wintour’s direction, his most enduring work from 1980-2000 is found in Marie Claire and Marie Claire bis. Under art directors Walter Rospert and later Fred Rawyler, these magazines provided the platform for his most exquisite and memorable fashion photography.
Marie Claire, as Marianne Mairesse, editor in chief, describes, is “the magazine of truth.” Its fashion imagery was powerful because of the editors’ conviction in the designers and their unwavering support, mirrored by dedicated photographers who amplified this vision. “[…] The Marie Claire woman is inherently chic, free-spirited, reflective, and embodies substance over mere image, evident in her direct, confident gaze.” (from 60 ans de mode, éditions marie claire, 2014).
Technical Information
Format: 24.5 x 33 cm, portrait
Pages: 144
Binding: Case bound, hard cover, stitched square back, full film cover
Images: 120 photos (black & white and colors)
Credits
Photographer: André Carrara
Author: Isabelle-Cécile Le Mée
Foreword: Dorothea Marciak
Artistic Direction: Fred Rawyler
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