Jolie Andreatta, the celebrated costume designer behind the hit series Suits and Pearson, has become synonymous with impeccable style and, most notably, the power suit. Her work transcends mere wardrobe selection; it’s about crafting visual narratives that empower characters and captivate audiences. Andreatta’s approach, often described as “hiding the brushstrokes,” results in a seamless and utterly flawless aesthetic, particularly evident in the iconic Fashion Designer Suits she creates for the strong female leads in these shows.
From the sharp, commanding suits of Jessica Pearson, portrayed by Gina Torres, to the polished, professional ensembles of Rachel Zane, played by Meghan Markle, Andreatta’s designs have not only defined characters but have also influenced contemporary perceptions of women’s professional attire. Her ability to understand and translate character nuances into clothing is what sets her apart in Hollywood.
Andreatta’s journey into costume design began somewhat serendipitously. Growing up in Santa Barbara and Big Sur, she reconnected with a childhood friend, cinematographer Josh Bliebtreu, who introduced her to the film industry. Despite the initial hurdle of lacking formal credits, her talent and determination quickly opened doors. Each project became a learning experience, pushing her creative boundaries and solidifying her reputation for excellence.
The impact of Andreatta’s work on Suits is undeniable. Her costumes became so iconic that they were honored with a Suits Farewell Exhibit at the Paley Center. For Andreatta, this recognition was a profound moment, a “cherry on top” of a career filled with gratitude and appreciation from the cast, producers, and studio. It underscored the cultural significance of her fashion designer suits and their contribution to the show’s success.
Meghan Markle, reflecting on her time working with Andreatta on Suits, acknowledged the designer’s profound influence on her personal style. Markle shared on her former blog, The Tig, how collaborating with Andreatta to develop Rachel Zane’s wardrobe elevated her own understanding of fashion and personal presentation. This speaks volumes about Andreatta’s ability not only to dress characters convincingly but also to inspire and educate through her sartorial choices. Andreatta’s approach extends beyond the screen; she has even assisted cast members with styling for personal events, though she emphasizes that their individual styles are distinctly their own.
When transitioning to Pearson, the spin-off series focusing on Gina Torres’ character Jessica Pearson, Andreatta faced the exciting challenge of evolving Jessica’s wardrobe while maintaining her signature power dressing. The storyline called for a slightly toned-down aesthetic, yet Andreatta ensured that Jessica’s signature designer labels – Dior, Balenciaga, Tom Ford, Givenchy, The Row, and Chanel – remained integral to her look. This continuity reinforced Jessica’s established persona while adapting her style to a new context.
Andreatta’s costume design process is meticulously detailed. She begins by dissecting the script, creating a “cross plot” to map out each scene and character appearance. This aerial view allows her to ensure visual harmony across scenes and among characters. Her “editorial approach” focuses on creating a cohesive flow for each character’s visual story, akin to crafting a narrative within a fashion magazine. This meticulous planning and artistic vision are key to the seamless and impactful fashion designer suits that define her work.
Collaboration is central to Andreatta’s process. Working with actors, producers, and directors, she navigates diverse perspectives to achieve the strongest visual outcomes. While differing opinions may arise, Andreatta believes that the synthesis of these ideas ultimately leads to the most compelling and effective costume choices. Her open and collaborative spirit is crucial to her success in bringing characters to life through fashion.
Andreatta acknowledges the influence of runway trends on her work, particularly the recurring theme of the “New Working Woman.” While not directly translating high fashion to the screen, she draws inspiration from current trends and the broader fashion landscape. Her early exposure to fashion magazines, starting with her mother’s Vogue issues, instilled in her a deep understanding of fashion’s captivating power. From the outset of Suits, she envisioned creating a show that could grace the pages of Vogue, bridging the gap between television costume design and high fashion.
Addressing the evolving style of women in politics, Andreatta expresses a preference for classic elegance. Observing contemporary female political figures, she favors three-quarter sleeves over short sleeves for a more refined and less distracting look. She champions beautifully tailored suiting, crisp white dress shirts, and thoughtfully chosen jewelry, emphasizing the importance of impeccable tailoring for a polished and powerful image. Her vision aligns with the sophisticated and commanding style she crafted for Jessica Pearson, advocating for a balance of strength, intelligence, and femininity in professional attire.
While Pearson concluded its run after the first season, Jolie Andreatta’s legacy as a leading costume designer, particularly for fashion designer suits, remains firmly established. Her work continues to inspire and influence perceptions of professional style, especially for women in positions of power. As she looks forward to new ventures, her impact on television fashion and the enduring appeal of the power suit are undeniable.
