The 1990s in India was a unique era for fashion, a time before globalization significantly impacted clothing styles. The Bollywood film Aaina (1993) offers a glimpse into the fashion trends of that decade, showcasing how costume design helped shape characters and reflected the evolving sensibilities of a liberalizing India. Amrita Singh’s character embodies boldness through vivid colors and chunky accessories, while Juhi Chawla’s character portrays a more subdued style.
The film highlights the prevalence of oversized yoke patterns and large embroidery motifs on kurtas, a stark contrast to the delicate work often seen today. Suit sets with dupattas were also a staple, reflecting the fashion norms of the time.
Aaina also showcases the popular A-line and fit-and-flare kurtas, precursors to the voluminous Anarkalis of the 21st century. The contrasting styles of the two lead actresses—Amrita’s flowing chiffon kurtas paired with churidars and Juhi’s narrow salwars—further emphasize the use of clothing to define personality.
Juhi Chawla’s distinctive hair ties add a quirky touch to her character’s “everygirl” persona, showcasing individualistic accessorizing trends within the broader fashion landscape of the 90s.
Sarees played a significant role in 90’s fashion. Amrita Singh’s character often sports single-toned sarees in a seedha pallu style, a draping technique that was also prominent in other Bollywood films of the era. The trend of “saree with blouse piece” is evident, highlighting the matchy-matchy aesthetic that defined the decade, with coordinated blouses, bindis, and bangles.
Handloom sarees, particularly those from Odisha and Coimbatore, were popular choices, reflecting a preference for traditional textiles. The black bead mangalsutra emerged as a fashionable symbol of marital status, offering a modern alternative to traditional designs.
Bold bindis with crystals and glitter, along with matching bangles, were essential accessories. Even male characters embraced vibrant colors and flamboyant styles, though the overall silhouette for men’s fashion leaned towards loose and boxy fits, even in formal wear. Jackie Shroff’s character exemplifies this trend with his colorful and stylish outfits.
The interior settings of Aaina also reflect the aesthetics of the time, with over-decorated homes showcasing the affluence of the characters. The contrasting styles of the sisters’ homes—one cluttered and dark, the other light-filled with whites and corals—further emphasize their differing personalities and social standing.
Aaina encapsulates the essence of 90’s fashion in India, a period characterized by bold colors, statement accessories, and a blend of traditional and modern styles. The film serves as a visual record of a pre-globalization era, showcasing a distinct Bollywood aesthetic that drew heavily from North Indian traditions and lifestyles.
