Dior’s New Look Leads
The silhouette put forth by Christian Dior in his 1947 New Look collection dominated 1950s fashion for women. The nipped-in-waist dresses, which exaggerated the female form, represented a dramatic shift from the masculine silhouettes of the 1940s with their sharp shoulders and narrow hips. Shoulders were softened with padding, waists were cinched to tiny proportions reminiscent of the Victorian era, and hips were accentuated with tulle and crinolines for added volume. The ultimate goal? An ultra-feminine silhouette.
Vogue‘s Paris Collection report from March 1, 1952, perfectly summarized the trend: “It begins at the waistline. The waist is what catches the eye right away. It’s newly high, it’s newly low, or it’s both.. but it’s always there, always stressed, and because that’s the case, fashion looks more feminine than it has in years.”
While Dior spearheaded this aesthetic, his contemporaries embraced and championed the look in their own unique ways. Designers like Balenciaga, Balmain, Jacques Fath, and Hardie Amies created glamorous, hyper-feminine dresses throughout the decade. This era solidified the hourglass figure as the epitome of feminine beauty. Full skirts, cinched waists, and elegant accessories defined the decade’s style.
Couture’s Golden Age: Paris Rebounds
Following the occupation of Paris during World War II, the city experienced a resurgence in the fashion world. The Chambre Syndicale de la Couture, the governing body of French haute couture, took measures to protect the designs of its members. A notice in Vogue‘s September 15, 1951, issue stated: “Copyrighted model—reproduction forbidden.” This applied to all models shown in Paris collections, emphasizing the exclusivity and artistry of haute couture. This marked a significant period for the industry, signifying a return to elegance and luxury after years of wartime austerity.
The emphasis on femininity extended beyond clothing to encompass the entire look. Women meticulously styled their hair, often in elaborate updos, and accessorized with hats, gloves, and handbags. The coordinated ensemble, with every detail carefully considered, became the hallmark of 1950s women’s fashion.
The 1950s marked a return to glamour and a celebration of femininity in fashion. While the era’s emphasis on traditional gender roles may be viewed critically today, the enduring influence of 1950s style on contemporary fashion is undeniable.
This era in fashion history is often referred to as extending from 1947 to 1957, coinciding with Christian Dior’s tenure at his eponymous label. The period following World War II saw a rejection of wartime austerity and an embrace of beauty and luxury, epitomized by the full skirts and cinched waists of the New Look.
The post-war economic boom further fueled the desire for fashionable clothing, making the 1950s a golden age for both couture and ready-to-wear fashion.
