The 1920s were a time of great social and cultural change, and fashion reflected this upheaval. The decade saw the rise of the flapper, a young woman who embraced a more androgynous look with short hair, dropped waists, and loose-fitting clothing. This style, however, was not the only trend of the era. Designer Jeanne Lanvin championed a contrasting aesthetic, creating romantic dresses with long, full skirts, often featuring panniers, a structure used to add fullness to the hips. These “Robe de Style” designs emphasized femininity and elegance.
Lanvin’s creations often incorporated delicate pastel colors and were accessorized with wide-brimmed hats, a departure from the popular close-fitting cloche hats of the time. While some designers incorporated elements of the flapper style into their work, Lanvin’s designs remained distinctly feminine, offering a stark contrast to the shapeless silhouettes favored by flappers.
Another defining trend of 1920’s women’s fashion was the adoption of sportswear as daywear. While sportswear had long been acceptable casual attire for men, the 1920s marked a shift as women began to embrace this comfortable and practical style. This trend is often attributed to Coco Chanel, but designers like Jane Regny and Jean Patou also played significant roles in popularizing sportswear. Patou’s designs, particularly his skirt and sweater sets, clearly demonstrate the influence of tennis attire on mainstream fashion.
Tennis, the most popular sport for women at the time, heavily influenced 1920s fashion trends. Tennis star Suzanne Lenglen, a fashion icon of the era, further cemented this influence. Her signature short-sleeved, pleated tennis dresses and bandeau headbands, designed by Jean Patou, were widely emulated. Lenglen’s on-court and off-court style inspired countless women to adopt similar looks.
By the late 1920s, sleeveless, knee-length, shift-like tennis dresses became incredibly fashionable. The popularity of sportswear extended beyond athletic activities, becoming acceptable attire for lunch at fashionable restaurants and even cocktail hour. This widespread adoption of sportswear signified a significant shift in women’s fashion, embracing comfort and practicality alongside style. Elements of sportswear, like loose-fitting silhouettes and comfortable fabrics, permeated everyday attire, reflecting the changing roles and lifestyles of women in the 1920s.
