The 1910s witnessed a dramatic shift in fashion, influenced by prominent designers and the upheaval of World War I. While Paul Poiret is often credited with revolutionizing the era’s style, other notable figures like Lucille (Lady Duff Gordon) achieved international acclaim with her designs originating in London and expanding to New York and Chicago. Simultaneously, Jacques Doucet captivated audiences with his flowing creations, and Mariano Fortuny introduced innovative pleating and dyeing techniques in Venice.
The outbreak of World War I in 1914 profoundly impacted fashion trends. Practicality and utility became paramount, as reflected in the popularity of tunics worn over skirts. This wartime ensemble is evident in the photograph of the Rockaway Hunt Meet (Fig. 2). Even renowned French designers like Jacques Doucet embraced simpler cotton garments during this period (Fig. 12). As women entered the workforce, particularly in munitions factories, they adopted uniforms, including overalls and trousers, further contributing to the shift towards functional attire.
Although the United States joined the war in 1917, the conflict’s influence on fashion was already apparent in Europe. France, the longstanding epicenter of fashion, experienced a slowdown in production and distribution. Yet, the elegance of the era was not entirely abandoned, as exemplified by a Worth evening dress from 1916 (Fig. 10). Similarly, the attire of women enlisting in the Marines in 1918 (Fig. 8) demonstrates the persistence of style amidst wartime. Military uniforms for women incorporated elements of contemporary fashion, with long skirts and tunics or jackets mirroring civilian dress. The white uniforms of the female Navy Yeomen (Fig. 9) particularly evoke the styles worn by the Suffragettes.
The conclusion of the war saw the continuation of simpler styles, with the emergence of a “barrel” silhouette. As fashion historian James Laver describes in Costume and Fashion: A Concise History, “the effect was completely tubular. Skirts were still long, but an attempt was made to confine the body in a cylinder” (230). This cylindrical form foreshadowed the iconic flapper look of the 1920s. Poiret’s pleated skirt and cocoon coat (Fig. 11) offer a glimpse into this evolving aesthetic, hinting at the transformative fashion trends that would define the following decade. The 1910s, therefore, represent a pivotal period in fashion history, marking a transition from elaborate ornamentation to streamlined silhouettes and laying the groundwork for modern styles.
