The dawn of the 1900s in women’s fashion inherited much from the preceding era, most notably the iconic Gibson Girl silhouette. This shape, characterized by its elegant and structured form, remained a dominant influence at the start of the decade. The shift towards simpler, looser garments that would become a hallmark of the 20th century was still on the horizon, emerging only in the later years of the decade and the early 1910s. Instead, the initial decade was defined by demure dresses, figures sculpted by corsets, and lavish embellishments.
For a significant portion of the 1900s Fashion scene, the S-bend silhouette dictated the fashionable form. This shape was achieved through the use of a newly designed “health” corset, ironically intended to be less restrictive. These corsets were engineered to thrust the bust forward and the hips backward, in a purported effort to alleviate pressure on the abdomen. However, the aesthetic outcome was a pronounced narrow waist and a prominent “mono-bosom”. This distinctive shape is clearly illustrated in a fashion plate from La Mode Artistique (Fig. 3) and exemplified by an early 1900s dinner dress created by the esteemed House of Worth (Fig. 4).
Tops and bodices of 1900s fashion were designed to be blousy and loose, as seen in figure 5, with the excess fabric strategically used to amplify the top-heavy effect of the silhouette. Sleeves were equally dramatic and voluminous, contributing to the overall grandeur of the fashionable look. To further enhance this shape, petticoats were crafted with fullness at the back while maintaining a smooth, flat front.
Modesty was a paramount consideration in 1900s fashion. Day dresses were designed to cover the entire body from the neck down to the floor, and long sleeves were essential for concealing the arms. Skirts adopted a bell-like shape, and lace emerged as a highly sought-after decorative element. For those who found lace beyond their budget, Irish crochet offered an attractive and more affordable alternative. Luxurious fabrics were favored, with silk satin and chiffon being particularly popular choices. Colors tended towards lighter shades, which served as a perfect canvas for elaborate decorations.
As fashion editor Kathryn Hennessy notes in Fashion: The Ultimate Book of Fashion and Style, “Sumptuous fabrics such as silk satin, damask, and chiffon, usually in light, soft colours, were decorated with lace, rhinestones, and spangles, often highlighting a part of the body or the face.” Echoing this sentiment, Daniel Milford-Cottam in Edwardian Fashion, observes, “The most fashionable daywear was often as elaborately trimmed and accessorized as evening wear.” This emphasis on ornamentation is evident in the bodice of an afternoon dress by Jeanne Paquin (Fig. 2), showcasing the intricate detail applied even to daytime attire in 1900s fashion.
Overall, the prevailing aesthetic of 1900s fashion was that of a mature, sophisticated, and graceful woman. This ideal is beautifully captured in a cream silk gown by the House of Worth (Fig. 1), embodying the elegance and refined style that defined the era.
